I lay in bed in the mornings listening to a wind that
drowns the call to
prayer and whips at my windows, “wake up, wake up,
wake up.” But even awake
I can’t shake the nightmare. Corpses piled high in the
streets. This is
Baghdad at the end of 2001 - soon to be the city of
the Dead.
I was in New York City on September 11th, and the one
source of hope I have
today is in how generous the people of New York were
after the terrible
attacks of that day. I take comfort in the feelings of
brotherhood and
sisterhood that I overwhelmingly felt in the aftermath
of that terror. And I
take comfort in the cries for peace that I heard and
saw as well. The
messages scrawled on sheet after sheet at the peace
shrine in Union Square
read, “We don’t want a war,” “Give peace a chance,”
and, “An eye for an eye
makes the whole world blind.”
Of the hundreds of messages scrawled on those sheets,
I only remember one in
favor of war: “Retaliate x10.” And, God help me, I
find myself praying the
death toll will be that small.
It’s been almost 30 thirty years since the Vietnam
War, and we have yet to
come to grips with the fact that the Vietnamese people
paid for the 58,000
U.S. soldiers that were killed at a rate of 50:1. Our
country killed between
2 and 3 million people in Vietnam. Vietnam wasn’t a
war - it was a massacre.
It’s been 11 years since “Desert Storm,” and we have
yet to come to grips
with the fact that for the roughly 150 U.S. soldiers
killed by enemy fire,
the Iraqi people paid at a rate of 1,000:1. Our
country killed between
100,000 and 200,000 people in Iraq during the 6 weeks
of “Desert Storm.” In
the long years since then, U.S.-led sanctions have
contributed to the deaths
of perhaps over 1,000,000 more innocents - most of
them children. That’s not
even a massacre - it’s a bloody slaughter.
When terrorists crash airplanes into crowded
skyscrapers, murdering massive
numbers of innocent people, we’d do well to ask
ourselves what taught them
to be so callous. And we’d do even better to stop
pretending it was the
“Playboy Channel.”
My hotel is a block from Sadoun Street, one of
Baghdad’s busiest. Sanctions
have loosened some in the last year, but most people
still struggle in
desperate poverty. According to the UN, thousands
still die every month as a
result. Um Sultan’s three children are absolutely
beautiful, with big,
luminous eyes matched only by their infectious smiles.
They’re beggars.
9-year-old Oufan is leader, keeping track of her
younger sister, Eifan, age
7, and her brother Sultan, age 4. They’re out on
Sadoun every day, working
the street.
I bought bananas for the street kids one day. They
grabbed them and ran just
far enough to make sure I wasn’t going to grab them
back. And then they ate
them, peel and all. That’s starving hungry. That’s in
a country where before
the sanctions the biggest complaint pediatricians had
was childhood obesity.
Um Yasser won’t let her children beg for money, but
she let’s them hustle
for it. She has no choice. 12-year-old Yasser shines
shoes, and 9-year-old
Sara sells chewing gum. Between the two of them, they
make enough to support
themselves and their three, younger sisters. When I
asked Um Yasser where
their father was she shook her head sadly, and told me
he had died. Then she
raised her hand to the heavens and said in a strong,
clear voice, “Allah
Kareem” - God is Generous.
I think of my cousin back in the United States, who
looked at me so
uncomprehendingly in the days before I left for Iraq.
I think of my cousin,
whom I love, who shrugged her shoulders and told me
with utter disdain,
“there will always be collateral damage.” I want to
grab her by the
shoulders, and shake her, and point to Oufan, Sara,
Yasser, Eifan and
Sultan, and all our other innocent victims, and ask
her which of their
deaths would restore her sense of security? There is
no such thing as
‘collateral damage,’ but the death of entire worlds.
There’s an amusement park next to the Baghdad Zoo. It
reminds me of the
summer fairs in Manassas and Chantilly that I used to
look forward to all
winter long when I was younger. Carnie barkers calling
out their
attractions; the smell of roasting peanuts and
hotdogs; the ferris wheel,
bumper cars, fun house, and carousel. Evenings at
those summer fairs always
seemed to last forever.
The carousel here in Baghdad is something straight out
of Ray Bradbury: wild
horses straining in mid-leap, frozen in hand-carved
and hand-painted wood;
children screaming in wild delight as they ride them,
or chase each other
between them. Their laughter should lift my heart. But
all I can see is what
their bodies will look like when the cluster bombs
start falling, and no
matter how far I ride the carousel I can’t ever seem
to find a way back to
the spirit of my innocence.
The wind is blowing from the West this winter, and
something wicked this way
surely comes.
Ramzi Kysia is a Muslim-American peace activist, and
serves on the board of
directors for the Education for Peace in Iraq Center
(www.saveageneration.org). He is currently in Iraq as
part of a Voices in
the Wilderness (www.vitw.org) peace delegation trying
to stop the war.
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