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The Timeless Joy of George Whitman’s Shakespeare & Company
Never doubt that simple acts of generosity and solidarity can change lives---and the world.
George Whitman and his Shakespeare & Company bookstore have been uniquely powerful living proof of that. And his daughter has guaranteed it will continue.
photo: Mark B. Schlemmer
Nestled into the Left Bank of the Seine, a stoned throw from the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral, George’s bookstore has been a beacon of Bohemian/hippie/humanist/leftist writing and romance for decades.
Its spiritual roots stretch back to the great literary lights of the ex-pat 1920s---Hemingway and Fitzgerald, Joyce and Stein. In George's 1950s era, that also meant Kerouac, Ginsberg, Corso and more. So much genius passed through the place its walls seem to glow.
George Whitman was known for letting budding young writers crash for weeks at a time. In the summer of 1967, I was one of them. Based on hippie urban legend, I sought the place out and asked if I could sleep on a couch upstairs.
Eyeing me suspiciously, George asked if I was a writer. I said I’d been a college editor, and had aspirations.
He said OK….I could have a week on the mattress.
It was pure joy. Raised in the Midwest, just out of the University of Michigan, at the age of 21, I got to hang out in Paris, surrounded by the spirits of the century’s greatest writers, thinkers, rebels. Nightly sessions of intellectual fervor followed days of wandering free through the vibrating streets of that gorgeous, dazzling city.
George consciously followed in the footsteps of another Whitman (no relation) who transformed the literary world of his day---and far beyond. Generous, eclectic and eccentric, George shared Walt’s occasionally fierce New England temperament, making him both fascinating and formidable.
My week in his bookstore changed my life. It proved that the fantasy of a Bohemian counter-culture could actually be sustained, and that it was at least as good as billed by those perennial romantics who are always being dismissed as “unrealistic dreamers.” At Shakespeare & Company, the dream was real…and as good as it gets. All these years later, Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris delightfully captures (though without the politics) the joy of its spirit.
And it continues. Not long ago I brought to Paris my teenaged daughter Julie. With Max Schneider, son of the great green energy expert Mycle, we paid our respects to Notre Dame, then found the bookstore.
I’d stopped by in the early 1990s and found the place in serious disrepair. I wasn’t optimistic about this return visit.
But to my great joy, the place literally shone. George’s daughter Sylvia runs it with firmness and grace. It is bustling with business, beautifully appointed, and offers a timeless blend of off-beat rebellion and good bookselling---what George has called "the business of life." It is a solid independent enterprise of the kind that is tragically disappearing throughout the US---but in this case with a legendary past being carefully preserved and enhanced.
With Julie and Max by my side, I told Sylvia that I’d stayed upstairs more than 40 years ago, and wanted to thank her for her father’s life-changing hospitality.
She suggested I thank George myself.
Venturing up the narrow, tiled staircase I’d loved so long ago, we found a young writer from Florida encamped as I’d been when we marched through the wine-soaked streets, shouting epithets against the Vietnam War, then retreating to the bookstore to drink and smoke and bask together in the intoxicating, self-proclaimed brilliance of our youthful rebellion.
George was napping on the third floor, but I could send up a note.
So I wrote one profusely thanking him for putting me up, and for keeping the faith through all these decades of trial and chaos, tears and joy, disappointment and victory.
Having made sure that Max and Julie were sufficiently inspired, we were just making our way out when a note came back, scribbled on the backside of the one I’d sent up.
George apologized for being indisposed. But he was glad I’d enjoyed my stay. And, since I’d continued to write all these years, I was welcome to stay again---any time.
Wow! I cannot describe the feeling that note gave me. Especially as I looked at the wide-eyed responses of my daughter and our young friend. In an instant, their lives changed, as mine had so long ago.
George Whitman passed away this week, at age 98. But his is a life that will truly never stop giving.
So thank you, George, for enhancing the Dream and making it real. Thank you, Sylvia, for keeping it alive.
And thank you, Shakespeare & Company, for reminding us all that there really is at our core a spirit of generous, joyous grace that makes life worth living, and that need never die.
Harvey Wasserman's History of the United States was published five years after his stay at Shakespeare & Company. He’s been writing and living that dream ever since.
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Show AllPlease let us remember that this bookstore was begun by Adrienne Monnier who was later joined by Sylvia Beach and the two women ran the store and began its bohemian heritage. Beach helped James Joyce get published a favor he never particularly acknowledged or returned. If you read this you would never know that it was two women together who made this the bookstore that George Whitman and his daughter Sylvia (for Beach?) thankfully continued. Once again women's history erased and a man credited for all they did. I would have expected better from Harvey Wasserman.
This is NOT the bookstore that was begun by Monnier & Beach, and Whitman took the name not only as a tribute & as a sign that he hoped to extend the tradition, but also in hopes that people who knew about the life & efforts of Sylvia Beach would come to his shop. The article is too vague on the difference between the two stores.
Highly recommended is Jeremy Mercer's "Time Was Soft There", about his own time at the store in the '90s.
no slight intended, that's for sure.
the original bookstore, prior to WW2, was indeed founded by Sylvia Beach et. al. George's daughter---now running it---was named for her. the original did not survive the Nazis. George revived it in the 1950s and ran it thereafter. there's some controversy, but one account clearly states that Sylvia Beach explicitly gave George the blessing to revive the name Shakespeare & Company.
i've just heard an NPR account of George's passing, again limited to his incarnation of the store. in future writings i'll certainly try to offer more emphasis on the original. thanks for the comment. no nukes, harveyw
Thanks for the update harvey. Working to shut Yankee here in Vermont.
We who used to man those old, beautiful, smelly, disorganized, amazing bookstores did so out of love, all kinds of love—certainly not for money. We helped merchant marines who came in to get a book by Henry Miller, a prosperous housewife looking for something like, what’s her name, Tillie Olson?, people in black hooded suits looking for voodoo instructions, history buffs and questers or all sorts, pornographers, photographers, lovers of art, those interested in the occult meanings of flowers, body language, numbers, letters, colors, types of dirt, types of signals, types of type. Out of college with a degree with honors, I worked in such a place for under minimum wage--for the honor, not that I had much choice other than to sell my soul to the advertising agencies or the law schools.
Man I loved those great bookstores, with their shelves three lines deep, their balconies and psychotics, their off-intellects and nutcases. They still haunt me in my dreams.
Thanks so much for this soulful report on a priceless piece of our history.
(And by the way, the New York Times obituary of Whitman gives the lineage between his S&Co. and Sylvia Beach's S&Co.)
Best to you from still nuclear-free-but-marching-toward-nuclear-filled Bolivia,
Chellis
Chellis: I put Evo Morales in the dedication of my new book and would like to send him a copy. It honors Pacha Mama and has a segment based on the lives of shamans in South America. Do you have a suggestion for a mailing address? It would be much appreciated; so thank you in advance.
Elizabeth H: Interesting reminiscing... I love old bookstores, too.
since this came up, i'd also like to remember my uncle george gloss, who ran the brattle bookshop in downtown boston. the greatest antiquarian/2d hand bookshop i ever knew & loved. now it's run by my cousin kenny. it's on west street, just off the common. be sure to visit on your way to paris!!!
george used to fill my arms with the great books at a dollar a load. they allowed me to write a history of the US. then i had the great honor of sending them all back with kenny a few years ago. ain't life (in books) grand!!!
A writer/ poet friend of mine who passed 7 yrs. ago was one of George's favorites. Every yr. Christopher would leave his home here in Atlantic City at the end of the summer season and head for Paris to hang out with his pal George Whitman @ Shakespeare and Co. Every spring when he returned he would regale me with tall tales of his adventures in Africa and Asia, So. America and the Carib., but they would always start with his time in Paris at SP & Co. I miss hearing them and I'm saddened to hear George has passed. I'm sure however that he has plenty of artist friends and others waiting for him @ that great bookstore in the beyond.