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Restoration Harvest
YAKIMA, Wa. — The apples look like Christmas tree ornaments, wearing a blush of dew at first light. The grapes could have been painted on, those clusters of sweet calories in their best October color. And here and there is the smell of hops, newly freed from their climbing nets, headed for breweries bottling a taste of fall.
I drove into the Yakima Valley, an edible landscape fed by water from the ice-covered volcanoes, on a day when yet another story appeared about how our food can kill you.
The piece by Michael Moss in the Sunday New York Times told of Stephanie Smith, a 22-year-old dance instructor who is paralyzed from a food-borne illness caused by E. coli. Minnesota officials have traced her condition to a hamburger that her mother grilled for a Sunday dinner in the fall of 2007.
You look at Stephanie, and follow Moss’s trail of the burger from a splotch pattern of trimmings taken from slaughterhouses all over the hemisphere and then through the exit door of the food giant Cargill, and wonder how this diet of ours became so disconnected from simple sources.
Cargill has $116 billion in annual revenues. They deliver, in the case of frozen burgers, a product of nearly indecipherable components, from disparate origins, on a mass scale. They deliver it cheap.
A restorative of sorts is at hand this time of year. Barely 1 percent of all Americans work the land year-round as farmers, but still something in us needs a harvest. Every now and then, we have to see our food, if only to preserve the illusion that this good earth can keep us well.
The Yakima Valley is one of the nation’s most bountiful farm regions, producing cherries and peaches, apples and pears, plums and peppers, cider and good wine.
Red Delicious, which is to a fruit bowl what plastic surgery is to beauty, is still the most popular apple — a polished piece of fruit that can keep its buffed pose year-round in near-freezing warehouses, but is utterly tasteless.
Honeycrisp, which is sunshine in a marbled orb, and Gala and Fuji are all coming on, as are innumerable varieties that had nearly been lost in the joyless pursuit of the perfect apple.
In afternoon light, the vineyards are impressionistic. I tried little bunches of cabernet franc and some malbec, picked that morning, their sugars at their peak after a spell of warm days and cold nights. And the pears, just off the tree but soft enough to produce chin juice on first bite, are candy.
In the romance of an October day, all of it seems like Eden in an age of warehouse burger peril. All of it seems like it fits — sustainable and local, to use those drab words that people insist on attaching to good food from somebody you know.
But this image is somewhat illusory. The Yakima Valley is a miracle of manipulation. It would grow little but sage and scrub brush without its network of irrigation ditches and pipes, draining water off the Cascades.
And these fruit types: many of them were hatched in labs. In this valley, even a hobbyist can play Apple God with grafts of genetically superior species. That fresh-picked fruit may look as local as Mount Adams, but apples originated in Kazakhstan. The only one native to the United States is the crab apple.
Still, at harvest time, the roadsides of this valley are full of people trying to get closer to the consumer, with food that has a story behind it. Despite the travails of the Great Recession, organic fruit and vegetable sales were up 37 percent last year, showing the consumer has a similar desire to connect.
I’m not one who thinks that organic always means better. I wish the non-factory farm produce was cheaper. But as the Cargill E. coli episode proved once again, cheap food can come with a terrible price.
There are more than 70 million cases of food-borne illnesses a year in this country, resulting in 5,000 deaths. Leafy vegetables — that’s you, bundle of supermarket spinach, and you, pre-washed lettuce — are the leading culprits, outside of meats, according to a study released this week by the Center for Science in the Public Interest. Just a few years ago, bagged baby spinach was said to cause the death of three people, and severe illness in 200 others.
Fruit is less troublesome, because it hangs above soil that can contain pathogens.
How much of the danger from leafy vegetables can be blamed on the industrial model that produces cheap calories I don’t know. But as consumers follow Michael Pollan’s advice to get to know our food producers, we will learn to see the processed burger and the industrial vegetables for what they are — cheap global commodities that carry some risk.
The best antidote for such a thing is to see, touch and experience food as it comes off the fields. As imperfect as this harvest picture is, it satisfies a need that has never bred out of us as people.
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11 Comments so far
Show AllWhenever I read one of these articles related to the vagaries of our monolithic food system, it takes me back to a not exactly idyllic, but certainly more sane & vital period in my life of land-based living.... off the grid, paying attention to compost (including humanure), growing the foods I'd previously only shopped for in bags, boxes and produce departments labelled with nearly never a local (as in same state) source. Trying to learn and unlearn a lifetime's worth of stuff in just a few years... I've been back in the city of my birth for a couple years now and am struck over and over by the profound disconnect we have from the natural world from which springs our food and other 'resources' we commodify without question and own and manipulate to create more money to own more commodities. We do this, I suppose, to build a fortress of security around ourselves, in the hopes that we will avoid inconvenience or discomfort and that we may entertain ourselves mightily so as to distract from all those bothersome 'others' out there. This disconnect is maintained by the monoculture system that insists on the industrialization cosmology of our lives and supported by military and economic violence as well as the violence of ripping human beings out of their natural context of connection and care and forcing them... us... into relationships where dependence and dominance dictate our imprisoned activities for entire lifetimes. Precious networks of family, friendship, co-creativity and open sharing are repeatedly torn by the vagaries of the marketplace, disrupting the integration that could make a saner world possible. Diversity is disallowed, electronic rectangles provide the illusion we are collaborative, when in actuality we don't know most of our neighbors or who down the street needs help we might offer or has some skill we have need for ourselves. A society fully conscious of and participatory in its food system would be a healthy one in which respect for our interconnections would inform decisions, from localized agricultural stewardship to health care to energy use to the sharing of skills, tools and celebratory arts in a manner that praised this mutilated world, rather than merely extracted from it, paying no heed to shredded web-strands or the accumulation of toxic waste and after(if-ever)thoughts left in our wake. Easy words to say; but not so easy to back up with real action when alternatives to car-centric and imposed infrastructures to support the monoculture (and starve out any noncompliant 'weeds') are demonized, disappeared, or just bulldozed over to make way for capital growth and image-preservation. This 'way of life' requires trillion-dollar wars on 'terror' from the biggest terrorists of all.... we, the (ironically globalizing) anti-terra-ists. We need to unplug and reach out to each other. I'm not sure why this hit a nerve... Maybe I'm just sending out an S.O.S. to some random original thinker out there who hasn't yet written us off as a lost cause. But would someone like that own a computer?
wonderful, Matangicita...beautifully phrased, and spiritually accurate...thank you so much...I feel lighter, having read your words...
from the article:
"Barely 1 percent of all Americans work the land year-round as farmers"
interesting that feeding one becomes another's job...not good...
I do.. Nah, just kidding..But I agree with "Manta," and I can see the day when we will not just grow a large part of our diet for ourselves, friends and neighbors, but enjoy it!
More gardening, less mowing!! peace..
Be sure to read the New York Times article linked above.
In the early 70’s as a teenager and college student I worked at a little mom and pop grocery store that had its own meat department. The best choice grades beef were purchased by the quarter and the quarter of beef was then cut up by the owner of the store into cuts, cuts of beef were then sliced, or sawed if the cut contained bones, into steaks and roasts.
Excess fat was trimmed from the beef and reserved to be ground into hamburger. The owner of the store bought frozen blocks of lean (range) beef from Argentina which we cut first into slices then the slices were cut again into ¾ inch thick sticks. The fat trimmings from the choice grade beef were then ground with the frozen sticks of lean beef. We then ground the mixture again and adjusted it fat/lean mix so it was uniform.
The people doing this were the owner of the store and 3 or 4, 18-21 year old college students. He taught us how to make hamburger and how to break down the meat saw, meat tenderizer, meat slicer (lunch meat) and hamburger grinder to clean them. The rate of pay was the minimum wage plus a dime for every six months experience you gained and during the school year you worked 20 hours a week, but back then minimum wage was a lot better.
While the lean range beef was from Argentina it was from the hind quarter of a single animal while the choice beef was from local meat packing plants and was distributed by local meat wholesalers, worst case scenario the meat in our hamburger was from four different animals.
To show how times were different back then the meat was sliced on a wooden butcher block that was scraped clean several times a day and the meat processing area was not refrigerated, on the other hand meat was taken from the large walk in cooler, sliced and placed in the refrigerated display case always in less than five minutes.
There was a broad opinion that this little (even by standards back then) grocery had the best meat department in town. Also all of the cuts of meat were sliced in full view of the customers behind the refrigerated meat display cases.
See, for contrast, Upton Sinclair's THE JUNGLE.
Efficiency as measured gross/cost or profit/time does not equal efficiency as sustenance/land or cost/benefit.
When the invisible hand of the market starts to operate, let's all sleep face up and keep our hands on our wallets.
Honeycrisp and fuji apples are heaven. When I got honeycrisps from the farmer's market a few weeks ago, I was almost moaning in pleasure when I ate them at work with my lunch...fuji's are definitely a close second.
And there is a stall there that sells crab apples from a tree planted on a local riverbank decades, if not longer ago, but I haven't tried them yet.
Fuji apples are even better after they've been stored for a couple of months. Apple salad made with Fuji apples, chopped pecans, finely diced celery with a dressing of reduced fat mayo, apple cider, a dash of sugar and a tiny dash of ground cloves has become one of our Holliday favorites. (Little marshmallows and grapes optional)
Fujis are fine but the Best Apple in the World is the Winesap: dense, firm flesh with its distinctive red veining and a tartness just a bit sweeter than a Granny Smith. They make the best apple pies.
Most stores in Georgia used to carry them (they don't grow well this far south) but I haven't seen one in a graocery store in years. The decreasing availablity of the winesap is just another example of how our choices are increasingly limited by profit-hungry marketers.
Of course, there are Red Delicious all over the place.
q
I mostly eat apples by hand, so I don't buy varieties that are good for cooking.
And RD's are nasty...slightly sweet, but the texture is awful. It falls apart.
. . .
with usura sin against nature,
is thy bread ever more of stale rags
is thy bread dry as paper,
with no mountain wheat, no strong flour . . .
Ezra Pound
from Canto XLV
While I see many stories on CD about "unsafe" food caused by Cargill and other corporate food producer/distributors, I see very little comparative data. Of the 70M cases of food-borne illnesses each year, what are the sources of contamination (e.g. improper handling and storage after retail purchase, improper handling and storage before retail purchase, cross-contamination during or after purchase, soil-sourced microbes, soil-source chemicals, intentional pesticides, unintentional pesticides, etc.
Some historical perspective might also be in order. Most of the articles refer to fresh fruits and vegetables, and fresh and frozen meats. What were rates of food-borne illnesses in the days of predominately home-preservation?
Other journalistic sources don't have much to say in this regard, and the CDC tends toward prevention steps in their publications on the issue. The CD articles may be right and Cargill may be the devil incarnate, but sayin' it don't make it so. Where's the data?
btw, the best fruit ever were the pears from my grandmother's old pear tree. We never knew what kind they were, but I can still taste them, and the pear preserves we ate all winter.