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The City that Ended Hunger
A city in Brazil recruited local farmers to help do something U.S. cities have yet to do: end hunger.
"To search for solutions to hunger means to act within the principle that the status of a citizen surpasses that of a mere consumer." CITY OF BELO HORIZONTE, BRAZILIn writing Diet for a Small Planet, I learned one simple truth: Hunger is not caused by a scarcity of food but a scarcity of democracy. But that realization was only the beginning, for then I had to ask: What does a democracy look like that enables citizens to have a real voice in securing life's essentials? Does it exist anywhere? Is it possible or a pipe dream? With hunger on the rise here in the United States-one in 10 of us is now turning to food stamps-these questions take on new urgency.
To begin to conceive of the possibility of a culture of empowered citizens making democracy work for them, real-life stories help-not models to adopt wholesale, but examples that capture key lessons. For me, the story of Brazil's fourth largest city, Belo Horizonte, is a rich trove of such lessons. Belo, a city of 2.5 million people, once had 11 percent of its population living in absolute poverty, and almost 20 percent of its children going hungry. Then in 1993, a newly elected administration declared food a right of citizenship. The officials said, in effect: If you are too poor to buy food in the market-you are no less a citizen. I am still accountable to you.
The new mayor, Patrus Ananias-now leader of the federal anti-hunger effort-began by creating a city agency, which included assembling a 20-member council of citizen, labor, business, and church representatives to advise in the design and implementation of a new food system. The city already involved regular citizens directly in allocating municipal resources-the "participatory budgeting" that started in the 1970s and has since spread across Brazil. During the first six years of Belo's food-as-a-right policy, perhaps in response to the new emphasis on food security, the number of citizens engaging in the city's participatory budgeting process doubled to more than 31,000.
The city agency developed dozens of innovations to assure everyone the right to food, especially by weaving together the interests of farmers and consumers. It offered local family farmers dozens of choice spots of public space on which to sell to urban consumers, essentially redistributing retailer mark-ups on produce-which often reached 100 percent-to consumers and the farmers. Farmers' profits grew, since there was no wholesaler taking a cut. And poor people got access to fresh, healthy food.When my daughter Anna and I visited Belo Horizonte to write Hope's Edge we approached one of these stands. A farmer in a cheerful green smock, emblazoned with "Direct from the Countryside," grinned as she told us, "I am able to support three children from my five acres now. Since I got this contract with the city, I've even been able to buy a truck."
The improved prospects of these Belo farmers were remarkable considering that, as these programs were getting underway, farmers in the country as a whole saw their incomes drop by almost half.
In addition to the farmer-run stands, the city makes good food available by offering entrepreneurs the opportunity to bid on the right to use well-trafficked plots of city land for "ABC" markets, from the Portuguese acronym for "food at low prices." Today there are 34 such markets where the city determines a set price-about two-thirds of the market price-of about twenty healthy items, mostly from in-state farmers and chosen by store-owners. Everything else they can sell at the market price.
"For ABC sellers with the best spots, there's another obligation attached to being able to use the city land," a former manager within this city agency, Adriana Aranha, explained. "Every weekend they have to drive produce-laden trucks to the poor neighborhoods outside of the city center, so everyone can get good produce."Another product of food-as-a-right thinking is three large, airy "People's Restaurants" (Restaurante Popular), plus a few smaller venues, that daily serve 12,000 or more people using mostly locally grown food for the equivalent of less than 50 cents a meal. When Anna and I ate in one, we saw hundreds of diners-grandparents and newborns, young couples, clusters of men, mothers with toddlers. Some were in well-worn street clothes, others in uniform, still others in business suits.
"I've been coming here every day for five years and have gained six kilos," beamed one elderly, energetic man in faded khakis.
"It's silly to pay more somewhere else for lower quality food," an athletic-looking young man in a military police uniform told us. "I've been eating here every day for two years. It's a good way to save money to buy a house so I can get married," he said with a smile.
No one has to prove they're poor to eat in a People's Restaurant, although about 85 percent of the diners are. The mixed clientele erases stigma and allows "food with dignity," say those involved.Belo's food security initiatives also include extensive community and school gardens as well as nutrition classes. Plus, money the federal government contributes toward school lunches, once spent on processed, corporate food, now buys whole food mostly from local growers.
"We're fighting the concept that the state is a terrible, incompetent administrator," Adriana explained. "We're showing that the state doesn't have to provide everything, it can facilitate. It can create channels for people to find solutions themselves."
For instance, the city, in partnership with a local university, is working to "keep the market honest in part simply by providing information," Adriana told us. They survey the price of 45 basic foods and household items at dozens of supermarkets, then post the results at bus stops, online, on television and radio, and in newspapers so people know where the cheapest prices are.
The shift in frame to food as a right also led the Belo hunger-fighters to look for novel solutions. In one successful experiment, egg shells, manioc leaves, and other material normally thrown away were ground and mixed into flour for school kids' daily bread. This enriched food also goes to nursery school children, who receive three meals a day courtesy of the city.
"I knew we had so much hunger in the world. But what is so upsetting, what I didn't know when I started this, is it's so easy. It's so easy to end it."
The result of these and other related innovations?
In just a decade Belo Horizonte cut its infant death rate-widely used as evidence of hunger-by more than half, and today these initiatives benefit almost 40 percent of the city's 2.5 million population. One six-month period in 1999 saw infant malnutrition in a sample group reduced by 50 percent. And between 1993 and 2002 Belo Horizonte was the only locality in which consumption of fruits and vegetables went up.
The cost of these efforts?
Around $10 million annually, or less than 2 percent of the city budget. That's about a penny a day per Belo resident.
Behind this dramatic, life-saving change is what Adriana calls a "new social mentality"-the realization that "everyone in our city benefits if all of us have access to good food, so-like health care or education-quality food for all is a public good."
The Belo experience shows that a right to food does not necessarily mean more public handouts (although in emergencies, of course, it does.) It can mean redefining the "free" in "free market" as the freedom of all to participate. It can mean, as in Belo, building citizen-government partnerships driven by values of inclusion and mutual respect.
And when imagining food as a right of citizenship, please note: No change in human nature is required! Through most of human evolution-except for the last few thousand of roughly 200,000 years-Homo sapiens lived in societies where pervasive sharing of food was the norm. As food sharers, "especially among unrelated individuals," humans are unique, writes Michael Gurven, an authority on hunter-gatherer food transfers. Except in times of extreme privation, when some eat, all eat.
Before leaving Belo, Anna and I had time to reflect a bit with Adriana. We wondered whether she realized that her city may be one of the few in the world taking this approach-food as a right of membership in the human family. So I asked, "When you began, did you realize how important what you are doing was? How much difference it might make? How rare it is in the entire world?"
Listening to her long response in Portuguese without understanding, I tried to be patient. But when her eyes moistened, I nudged our interpreter. I wanted to know what had touched her emotions.
"I knew we had so much hunger in the world," Adriana said. "But what is so upsetting, what I didn't know when I started this, is it's so easy. It's so easy to end it."
Adriana's words have stayed with me. They will forever. They hold perhaps Belo's greatest lesson: that it is easy to end hunger if we are willing to break free of limiting frames and to see with new eyes-if we trust our hard-wired fellow feeling and act, no longer as mere voters or protesters, for or against government, but as problem-solving partners with government accountable to us.




30 Comments so far
Show AllSioux Rose
Alas, some good news! And Ms. Lappe mainly writes about structural changes that become win: win situations for everyone. Notice the interfacing or networking between the university (doing the research on costs), the city (extending land usage), the farmers (growing the bounty) and the citizenry.
On a recent trip to California, one of the "highs" was stopping into the organic salad bar at "Farmer & Cook" in Ojai. I once ran into the movie actress Julie Christie there. I'd love to see more local organic salad bar "cafes" sprout up to replace the ubiquitous 7-11 places or bars. People spend a lot of money on junk: potato chips, "snacks," sugary low-nutrition items, beer, cigarettes, and probably worst of all, those greasy beef jerky type items. Organic produce, diets with more WHOLE foods would probably help eliminate a lot of the dis-eases that a lousy diet has brought on. In short, cost savings might be found in terms of preventative measures as opposed to treating the physical deterioration of so many citizens.
I was just reminded of a visit to Salt Lake City last October. A friend took me to a restaurant called World Cafe (not positive if that name is correct). It wasn't strictly a vegan diet, but the food was plentiful, wholesome, tasty, and available to those with little or no money. Payment was on an honor system to pay what you could afford. In exchange for an hour's work around the restaurant or the compost farm, you earned a ticket for one meal (eat till you are full). My friend and I both spent a couple of hours raking leaves and making a trip to the compost farm--good for two meals each. It was definitely a fulfilling stop while walking around downtown Salt Lake City. All the people there were warm and part of a shared experience which I would love to see spread to as many locations as possible.
Interesting. I've seen this idea appear in quite a few countries around the world: payment based on the honour system, if you can't pay, you do various jobs around the eatery, cleaning dishes, helping to prepare the food.
yes, in my city (denver) i recently was fortunate to volunteer a shift at such a place... which is packed lately due to some recent hometown media attention for the remarkable couple that started it. i cannot describe the difference in feel between such a place and a typical restaurant. almost a huge extended family feel to it. and seeing homeless folks that you might encounter out on the street able to come be in a context where they can experience a sense of dignity and care... there's nothing like it. the food seems fresher and more imbued with life than the average restaurant fare too. when ms. lappe was recently in denver doing a signing her book, 'getting a grip' i had her sign my copy of 'hope's edge' and was pleased at the opportunity to tell her how pivotal 'diet for a small planet' had been in my life. there's a nascent grassroots 'movement' percolating around getting folks involved in community gardening, CSAs and NSAs (community supported & neighborhood supported agriculture) in this city at long last which feels really exciting. the 'transition denver' group meets once a month and hopefully will catch up with our neighboring 'transition boulder' group which is going full steam ahead in (of course) boulder, offering little workshops on seed saving and such....my hope is that more of these workshops will be offered free to the public, since with so many folks unemployed, the costs of attending can be prohibitive. but it is encouraging that so many new initiatives are taking place nevertheless and even this early in the season it's evident that more people are preparing vegetable gardens for the first time or even carving out significant chunks of their front lawns for gardening. the cynic in me wants to go into fear that somehow our abilities to 'take back' agriculture from big agra will get dashed by some new crazy commodification scheme or other, but as long as there's any sense of the miracle in those tiny seeds transforming into those wondrous, delicious friends of humanity, i can't succumb to such fears, since mother nature's context is so vastly more grand than any marketing expert could ever dream up. as that irrepressible st francis once said in a poem:
when i returned from rome
a
bird took flight.
and a flower in a field whistled at me
as i passed.
i drank
from a stream of clear water.
and at night the sky untied her hair and i fell asleep
clutching a tress
of god's.
when i returned from rome, all said,
"tell us the great news,"
and with great excitement i did: "a flower in a field whistled,
and at night the sky untied her hair and
i fell asleep clutching a
sacred tress..."
You should keep this under wraps! If word gets out, the US will bomb Belo as a recruiting center for communist insurgency!
Diet for A Small Planet was the first veg book I encountered.
It had very little(maybe a paragraph) about animal concerns which was strange given its links going back thousands of years to Pythagoros in the West and Jainism in the East, but it was still very informative, and the fact that it took a humans first approach and still was ignored says much.
There was a 1974 Japanese sci fi horror movie called the Last Days of Planet Earth which took the Lappe book argument cattle + crops and water = wasted food for humans, and drew it on a chalkboard. Kind of odd to see in such a film but interesting.
Given the recent articles about crop loss, water shortages, amazon clearing for grazing land, and species extinction due to ranching, nothing has changed.
Even part of the strong criticism of biofuels is coming from ranching interests who are upset about higher food prices for livestock.
Not that biofuels are a good idea, they arent, but the glare needs to be focused on the livestock industry.
"Hunger is not caused by a scarcity of food but a scarcity of democracy."
Direct democracy, that is.
Good idea the Brazilians had in that city. would not work in the US though. with the sense of entitlement that exists here people would want to get that stuff for free just cuz it's from the government.
The sense of entitlement that exists in the US is the belly-aching of the wealthy that they would not be allowed to insinuate themselves in the transaction to make private profits from public expenditures.
Free food was a perk for all citizens of the Roman Empire … those barbarians.
You mean "people" like AIG? Citi? GM?
Kerala, India, is another such place where the people have decided that every citizen has a right to enough to eat, an education through college for free,
affordable health care and in Kerala great progress has been made toward making sure everyone has a roof over her/his head. Kerala one of India's 26 states has a population the size of California and a per capita average annual income of less than $600 per year. A strong tradition of citizen activism is at the heart of Kerala's succcess at creating a high quality life for ALL its citizens.
that is wonderful, as well as the one in brazil.
it seems that it is more difficult for human society to do the right than to accumulate the bad.
but it doesn't mean the right things haven't been attempted and succeeded and need to be emulated even more until there is no room for the "bad", in terms of these macro matters.
although there is in india such great pverty -- and it is reported that hunger there is even worse than in many places in africa that are more notorious for hunger ....in the history of india there had been phases when "general welfare" had been a successful social achievement.
what is called the "golden age" in india centuries ago was one such thing. and ironically it is credited to an emperor who was formerly so cruel and bloodthirsty : Ashoka .
but after yet another bloody and brutal conquest (he was fond of displaying his conquests in fields with heads on spikes and torture) - it dawned on him how empty it felt...and he somehow began a lifelong journey to the end of his life to seek redemption for his cruelty.
he traveled the entire subcontinent, going to the poor places, and asking the people:
"how do you want to be ruled, what is it you wish for in life?"
learning the people only wanted to live decently , end poverty, hunger...fear, etc.
so he gathered what he learned , from what the people suggested...and built what was considered the first "social welfare" system..using the wealth of the empire to improve the lives of communities...inscribing the edicts in huge pillars of stones that still stand today throughout india.
he also extended this "new" ideal of a peaceful, just society towards what was also perhaps the first official edicts in the humane treatment of animals and all living beings.
all this began after he met a man later known as "the buddha"...and in the end the emperor began to live a more and more ascetic life , until he died by starvation in a cave, still trying to make amends for his cruelties as he seeked redemption.
thanks teddy- what a great story
the rich, especially of the American variety are PARASITES on the body politic.
that's all they really are.
Ha! ABC stores throughout the south (of the USA) are liquer stores!
The ironic stories write themselves...
Thank you for publishing this, it is important to spread the word.
"Hunger is not caused by a scarcity of food but a scarcity of democracy."
Hunger is caused by a lack of reverence and respect for humanity, both of which vanished when "statesmen" were replaced by selfish, shortsighted and self-righteous politicians!
absolutely right on.
Beginning any such program in the U.S. would attract the wolves and weazels who love gaining wealth from the less fortunate. The farmers and the hungrey would both find the program hijacked by the greedy. It is aa awful way to feel, but it appears as if every program designed to benefit the country as a whole has someone at the top skimming the resources for themselves. And, why not? No one is held accountable and in the rare cases where someone is held accountable it is only a slap on the wrist and a token fine.
Teddy; Wonderfully expressed story.
Would some CD folks care to weigh in on which[if any]of the major religions does the best at caring for the most vulnerable?
As the wider world nods its approval, the USA smirks and prances.
this is a wonderful story deserving far more global attention. frances lappe is a global treasure---her DIET FOR A SMALL PLANET remains a critical monument in the understanding that human consumption of factory-farmed meat is one of the most important destroyers of our ability to survive on this planet. thank you, ms. lappe, for all you do & have done!
Great to read something positive for a change. It shows what can happen when the government sets out to truly help the people. Wonder how the merchants feel, though, about the city comparing prices at dozens of different supermarkets and posting the results "at bus stops, online, on television and radio, and in newspapers."
hopefully the merchants feel great about it....i'd imagine they do...like fellow human beings capable of deciding amongst themselves and with customers what sane prices can best keep farmers farming happily and allow even the poorest to eat decently because they are also capable of compassion.
Ghandi: "There is sufficiency in the world for man's need -- but not for man's greed."
Bless
It WAS SO EASY.
The article notes this amazing fact, so easy to end malnutrition, so easy to feed the hungry, so easy to cloth and shelter those who need such. Unfortunately it is also so easy to continue to ignore them.
free2bee
Can't you see the line-up of lobbyists paid to stop such a program? If they are trying to kill Social Security, as they did with medicare prescription, how far would this idea get.
There are already bills working their way through both the House and Senate to limit the kinds of seeds that can be grown for food (all hybrids, of course) AND to dictate what fertilizers are to be used (not organic, of course). Lobbyists for Big-Agri will fight this idea at the Washington DC level. It could work locally, though, which is what happened in Brazil. A city did it; not the central government of Brazil.
Why are so many farmers markets here in the US so expensive ?? Even though I like going to them it really is so much more expensive and often feels like 'boutique' shopping if you buy organic produce.
your question sounds sincere, and i can only respond by asking you to read 'omnivore's dilemma' or 'stuffed and starved' or any of lappe's books mentioned in the article, as well as suggesting you carve time out for a farm visit. ask if you can be a 'gleaner' or volunteer for a day in a greenhouse or just take a spring tour of a csa. that will answer your question and raise others very much worth asking.