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A Warning From the Sea QUILCENE, WASH. -- For decades, the unwritten motto at shellfish hatcheries in the Pacific Northwest was "Better oysters through science." Scientists mated the heartiest, fastest-growing stock to produce plumper, sweeter oysters for slurping raw on the half-shell or frying up to dip in tangy sauces. They probed the genetic code to select for the most desirable traits of the Pacific oyster, an import from Japan that now weighs in, pound for pound, as the No. 1 aquacultured crop in the world: 4.5 million tons a year (shells included) valued at $3 billion.

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A Warning From the Sea

QUILCENE, WASH. -- For decades, the unwritten motto at shellfish hatcheries in the Pacific Northwest was "Better oysters through science."

Scientists mated the heartiest, fastest-growing stock to produce plumper, sweeter oysters for slurping raw on the half-shell or frying up to dip in tangy sauces.

They probed the genetic code to select for the most desirable traits of the Pacific oyster, an import from Japan that now weighs in, pound for pound, as the No. 1 aquacultured crop in the world: 4.5 million tons a year (shells included) valued at $3 billion.