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From the barren concrete courtyard of al-Rahmah Orphanage, the view
outside the squeaky iron gates reveals a dozen acres of hostile desert
encircled by three prisons and a mental hospital.
But even this desolate playground now is mostly off-limits to the 26 girls
who live at the orphanage.

In al-Rahmah Orphanage, this girl is one of 26 segregated from boys by clerics who took over after Saddam Hussein's secular regime fell. Photo by Thorne Anderson, special to the Chronicle
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In the chaos that followed the fall of Saddam Hussein last month, the Hawza, a powerful group of senior Shiite Muslim clerics, took over al-Rahmah. In the
name of security and Islamic values, the new management stationed 12 armed
guards around the perimeter and confined the girls to two rooms in one of the
building's four wings.
To make sure the boys and the girls didn't mingle, Hawza guards built a
brick wall separating the girls' wing from the rest of the building.
"This is the only way we can control the girls in an Islamic fashion. It is
really better this way," said Sheikh Bakr Saadi, the orphanage manager
appointed by the Hawza.
With a violent crime wave still engulfing Baghdad, even the girls say they
have no alternative.
"For now, the most important thing for us is to be protected," said Sahat
Karim, 14, clad in a brown gown several sizes too big for her. "Most of all,
we need security and safety. The Hawza gives us that."
The powerlessness of American troops to provide security in postwar Iraq is
helping Shiite clerics gain leverage in many parts of the country. Religious
leaders have set up their own administration, rivaling the American one, in
the eastern half of Baghdad, mainly in the derelict Shiite enclave of Sadr
City, taking control of hospitals, schools and orphanages.
'HAIL ISLAM'
"They replace Saddam's portraits with verses from the Koran," said Ban
Dhayi, a spokeswoman in Baghdad for the United Nations Children's Fund
(UNICEF). "They make children in schools, instead of saying 'Hail Saddam,' say
'Hail Islam.' They make girls and women wear hijab (traditional head covering).
"
At al-Rahmah, the orphanage's 26 boys roam freely around the courtyard. But
the girls, ages 5 to 20, are allowed outside for only two hours in the evening.
They spend the rest of the day indoors, mopping the floors over and over,
playing with a ball -- the only toy left after looters swept through -- and
reading the sole book available: the holy Koran.
"Groups like the Hawza are taking over people's confidence because people
no longer have confidence in the Americans," said Amal Khodhairi, a grande
dame of the arts establishment whose Beit al-Iraqi culture center was a
favorite place of liberal Iraqis until it was looted last month.
"These groups are the only ones left with some semblance of structure,"
Khodhairi said. "They feed people, protect them, but they are limiting. They
stay in the past, with their outdated ideas. They force limitations on people.
They want Iraq to become extremist."
FREEDOMS UNDER HUSSEIN
Although Hussein's secular Baath Party created one of the world's most
despotic regimes, it allowed Iraqi women personal rights and freedoms
unparalleled in the Persian Gulf. Women could drive, travel abroad alone,
study in universities, serve in the army and work side-by-side with men. Iraqi
women, who make up at least 55 percent of the population and are among the
most educated in the region, can become anything, from college professors to
lawyers. They choose whom to marry and whether to marry at all.
In lawless Baghdad, however, safety is now more prized than freedom.
"We have heard of many problems for the children -- and girls in particular
-- of abductions, vendettas, children of former Baathists being targeted,"
UNICEF's Dhayi said.
The true extent of the danger remains unclear, but many parents aren't
taking chances.
"Our girls are not safe, not here, not anywhere," said retired military
officer Abdel Jaba, 53, as he waited with more than 20 mothers and fathers at
the entrance to al-Makasib school for their daughters to finish classes.
Like many of the parents, Jaba escorts his 13-year-old daughter, Yasmin, to
school every morning and remains there until she finishes at 12 p.m. He then
takes her back to their house, where she stays until the next day.
About 1,000 girls ages 7 to 15 ordinarily attended Catholic-affiliated al-
Makasib, which has a reputation for excellence. Security fears have now cut
attendance in half.
Sister Yvette Maria, a nun at nearby St. Joseph's convent who has taught
theology and Arabic at the school for 34 years, pulled a key from her pocket
and said she had prepared a safe house close by for the girls in case they
need to escape at short notice.
'NO FUN OUR WHOLE LIVES'
For 13-year-old Tabarek Mahmoud, the fears and insecurity have become too
much to bear. Among her friends at al-Makasib school, she exudes an aura of
confidence, but in the quiet of the principal's office, Mahmoud begins to
shake, and tears roll down her face.
"We have had wars and no fun our whole lives. There is no stability," she
said, weeping. "It is so hot. There is no electricity and the light is so dim
I am damaging my eyes. I am scared of being attacked, and I see guns
everywhere. I just want to enjoy my childhood."
While some parents are escorting their children to classes, others are
schooling them at home until the security situation improves. In the meantime,
many young women remain virtual prisoners in their homes.
Bassem al-Hassona, 20, a fashionably dressed college business student, has
stayed home for more than a month, fearful of venturing outside in a city
where armed gangs roam the streets.
"I cannot go out, I can't even buy a present for my friend whose birthday
is next week. My female friends are too scared to drive. Everything is bad now,
" she said.
"The Americans say they brought us freedom. That's OK. But freedom doesn't
mean much to me without security and the chance to live my life."
As the clerics increasingly take advantage of the power vacuum in the
country, inspiring calls for Iraq to become an Islamic state, many women
wonder if life without Hussein's oppressive regime will mean erosion of
liberty they have enjoyed for decades.
"Like all my friends, I worry a lot about my future and my freedom in this
new country," said Thanaa al-Taee, 34, an arts critic and a ceramics teacher
who is now completing her fourth master's degree.
"I am Shia, but I don't want to wear a scarf on my head," said al-Taee,
dressed in bell-bottom jeans and a tight T-shirt. "And I want to be able to
work and travel unrestrained. If I can't do it in post-Saddam Iraq, I will
have to leave the country."
©2003 San Francisco Chronicle
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