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No Place to Run, No Place to Hide
Looking back now, I think it was around 3 AM on September 26, 1985, while lying on the floor of the Virginia Beach Convention Center, staring at the underside of a folding table, when my husband and I decided to move to higher ground. We had spent the previous day fastening plywood over windows, emptying shelves, closets and cabinets and then stacking our upholstered furniture, rugs, clothing, books and tools atop counters, tables and wooden chairs, trying to protect them from anticipated flood waters.
Hurricane Gloria, described at one point as the "Storm of the Century," was swirling off the coast, predicted to make a direct hit on Virginia Beach on the morning of the 26th. Our suburban lot, set two blocks back from the Atlantic Ocean, was low-lying. A long-time resident told us that, during the famous Ash Wednesday Storm of 1962, flood waters had reached our front door knob. We had flood insurance but, studying the fine print while hurricane warnings sounded over the radio, we realized that the policy only covered the "depreciated value" of the contents of the house. Depreciated value on a ten year old television, twenty year old books and thirty year old sofa does not equal replacement value. Thus, the eight hour stacking, stashing and boarding up marathon.
And so, we decided to "be safe" and move to higher-much higher-ground in the Shenandoah Valley, two hundred miles inland. Ironically, six weeks after Hurricane Gloria decided to give Virginia Beach a pass and strike Long Island instead, a storm spawned in the aftermath of Hurricane Juan devastated West Virginia and parts of western Virginia, including the Shenandoah Valley. When we arrived there the following spring, we were greeted by the sight of a two story house, still wedged high in an oak tree overhanging the Middle River, where flood waters had left it months earlier.
We found the home of our dreams--a hundred year old "fixer-upper"-- perched atop a hill surrounded by rolling countryside, framed to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and by the Appalachians to the west. No large bodies of water in sight. Safe at last, we thought.
We were taken aback, therefore, when a tornado struck the nearby town of Augusta Springs. It knocked a century-old wood frame church off its foundation, then skipped over a hill and reduced a trailer to a few scraps of aluminum and shreds of insulation. I commented to an elderly neighbor at what a freakish occurrence a tornado in these parts must be and he nodded, noting, however, that the last one he recalled had torn a path across his pasture before knocking the top off one of the massive oak trees that shaded our own house.
"Oh," I said, swallowing, "I noticed that the tops of three of the oak trees were broken off. They all must have been damaged in that same storm."
"Oh, no," he replied. "The tornado only got one of them. Lightening strikes got the other two."
One day we got word that my friend Lucy's house had burned to the ground. My husband and I grabbed some crowbars and headed over to her place, thinking to help her shift the wreckage enough to recover some of her belongings.
"No", she said, as we arrived to see the flat black ruins. "You don't get it--there's nothing left to move."
Her big, solid house-- like our own--had been built of chestnut-a hard wood that had been seasoning for a hundred years. You just can't get better firewood than that.Twenty one years after our run-in with Hurricane Gloria, we passed through the eye of Typhoon Xangsane in our present home in Da Nang, Vietnam, two blocks from the South China Sea. We survived unscathed, but the City of Da Nang appeared devastated. The typhoon ripped off part, if not all, of everyone's roof. Great trees that formerly lined the avenues downtown were uprooted; tree limbs and downed electric lines blocked most roads.
Yet, even as the winds were dying down that Sunday evening, Da Nang residents were out salvaging corrugated metal panels and fixing their roofs. Enterprising people quickly began chopping up and hauling away downed trees, leaving only leaves and the smallest twigs for the city trash trucks. Electrical service was restored in a matter of days.
Less than two weeks later, another typhoon lurked off-shore. Da Nang residents bought empty feed sacks and headed resolutely down to the beach. They filled their sacks with sand and then hauled them up atop their houses to ensure that their newly repaired metal roofs stayed in place. The second storm by-passed Da Nang but the sandbags remained in place until the bags degraded and the sand sifted back down to earth many months later.
This year, in lieu of typhoons, central Vietnam was pummeled with a series of extremely heavy rain storms. I'm talking about three days of continuous, horizontal, masonry-wall-penetrating rain! The storm drainage system of downtown Da Nang, for the most part, handled the run-off well-certainly much better than my old neighborhood in Virginia Beach. The Han River rose out of its banks, covering Bach Dang Street for one day. The nearby tourist town of Hoi An flooded, as it does every year. But, as soon as the flood waters receded, shops were mopped out, merchandize restocked and business resumed. Two days after river waters swept through a neighborhood on the outskirts of Da Nang, reaching a height of six feet within some houses, I traveled through to see freshly scrubbed houses, sleeping mats hung out to dry and people sipping coffee in the neighborhood shops.
My young friend Mieng confided that her grandmother's house had washed away in the recent floods. Her grandmother lives in a bamboo hut by a river in Quang Ngai province.
"Oh, my God!" I said. "What will she do now?"
"The same thing she does every year," said Mieng. "Stay at the community shelter until the flood waters recede and then rebuild her bamboo house with the help of her neighbors. My Dad wants her to move here, to Da Nang, and live with us, but she wants to stay in Quang Ngai with her friends and neighbors."
My friend Tam tells me that, when she was a child in Da Nang, before the American War, all the houses in her neighborhood were made of bamboo. One day a fire swept through and burned them all down. I haven't seen a fire engine in the year and a half that I've lived in Da Nang-but I haven't seen a house on fire either. Da Nang houses now are made of brick and cement-impervious to both fire and flood. The walls are solid masonry; the floor is ceramic tile over concrete. There's no carpet, no sheet rock, no insulation. If the roof blows off, they stick it back on. If the floor floods, they mop it. If the walls get wet . . . they get mildew.
Will we be able to avert the disastrous effects of global climate change? Maybe we will and maybe we won't. But, even without that added complication, bad stuff happens. It always has and it always will. There is no safe place. Insurance policies and new technology are not the only possible responses to life in an unpredictable world. There's a lot to be learned from cultures that have a history of weathering big storms and hard times.
A flexible reed may survive a storm that fells a mighty oak.
Virginia Lockett, along with her husband and son, now live in Da Nang, Vietnam, where they try to live useful lives while continuing to whittle away at their carbon footprints. More information about their lives in Vietnam, as well as their non- profit organization, Steady Footsteps, can be found at www.steadyfootsteps.org
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14 Comments so far
Show AllYou're right Ms. Lockett, no safe place. Weather is weather and people adapt.
So I'm sure everyone will adapt to a 9 meter rise in the oceans once Greenland is green, Iceland has no ice, and the ice caps are gone. Of course, we can handle a 27' rise in the oceans, of course we can. We all move inland. Our neighbors will be quite willing to accept the millions (billions?) of homeless hungry displaced people from every coastal city on the planet (gondolas in NY, Lost Angels, Seattle, San Diego, SF). We'll be fine, we'll just compose creative and humane responses.
Of course we will. Just like we do now.
Pieces of 8.
Lucky Lefty, I love your sense of humor. I think this climate change thing is a little bigger and badder than the challenges the planet has had to face in the past 2000 years. The water is not going to recede. The cooler weather ain't going to come back. And of course, the air isn't going to clean itself up with the next rain storm. Oh well. Is it 5pm somewhere? I think I need a glass of wine......
I also live in Vietnam and the people here are amazing at recovering from just about anything. They work together and help each other.
I remember the storms you mention that occured this past year in beautiful Da Nang and the lovely town of Hoi An. Down here in Saigon, we were a little worried, and the rivers rose to unprecedented heights, but the little flooding there was, was of no consequence because everyone builds their home about one to two meters higher than the street. I once asked one of my older students what would Saigon do in the future as the sea level rises, and she said they would probably just build the houses on concrete stilts and, if necessary, use boats to get around - something a great many people do anyway.
Several months ago I wrote that if the world ran out of gas tomorrow, the Vietnamese would adapt very quickly. If you've ever visited Vietnam, you will have seen that there are so many things that are done with no gas but human strength. Even if you are moving your house, it is often done by a man who loads everything onto a large type of bicycle and peddles the household goods to their new destination. The same goes for many other activities such as construction. Strong, well made homes are built in ways that wouldn't be considered in an industrialized country. They use a lot of their own physical strength rather than machines for the most part. That is why I mentioned in my post several months ago that maybe the meek will inherit the earth.
The US builds bombs and Weapons of Mass Destruction. Aircraft carriers, attack helicopters, tanks, and SUVs. North America has the fattest, most unhealthy population on the planet, eating 'food' composed mostly of starch and sugar, and when there is meat of any kind it is laced with growth hormones and unwelcome antibiotics. Most people don't even know how to grow a garden, and the most common form of 'recreation' is utter passivity in front of a TV. Home building, and construction in general is a joke, with buildings so haphazardly bashed together they are lucky to last ten years! The entire society is so oil dependant, that if the stuff were to be cut off tomorrow, the nations of America and Canada would implode!
It is well past the time to step back, and decide which articles of technology we can truely not survive without, and abandon the rest. Cause if we don't, Mother Nature is gonna do it for us!
If the author is flying back and forth from the US to Vietnam, she and her family are not reducing their footprints. Each flight, it's like each of them drove individually in a large SUV.
This is why I moved my family to the Philippines last year. People here know how to fix things, know how to live poor, know how to survive. In the coming global economic and environmental meltdown, people here will get through it. Meanwhile, the U.S> will look like a giant Katrina, with the wealthy safe and sound, and the poor and middle class losing everything and waiting for a handout that never comes.
Ah think the "terra-ists" have a lot to do with the weather patterns. We need more data on the science, not some opinions from activist scientists. I'll ask Condi if she thinks we should deploy some troops over there. Vietnam, huh? How far is it from Iraq? I bet the Iranians have somp-in to do with those floods.
Virginia Lockett,
The work you and your family are doing for the Vietnamese people is indeed admirable, and I wish you all the very best.
The Vietnamese are a sturdy people and seem to overcome enormous calamities against all odds.
I remember Montagnyard villages built out of bamboo, high above the ground, and as clean and neat as can be.
One of these days I may go back as a peaceful tourist and visit some of the areas I was in.
hybridoma2001
I like what you said about the Vietnamese people. I hope they don't become too 'Americanized,' and lose their sense of community.
Galen
No beatin' around the bush on that one. You are so right about contemporary America.
I like what you said about the Vietnamese people. I hope they don't become too 'Americanized,' and lose their sense of community.
I hope that for the world, I hope that for The United States too.
Americanization is to culture, what rock salt is to gardens.
When I lived in rural northern Minnesota, there was also a strong sense of community, and although we were considered "gypsies" from California, since we stuck out the winters, we were also included (except for the jobs - those were reserved for their kids to try to keep them from leaving). They also were big on self-sufficiency and we learned how to grow and put by food and take care of ourselves. Skills that will be in short supply if things get tough.
kathyodat
hybridoma2001 January 19th, 2008 2:36 pm said, apparently referring to the Vietnamese, "...that maybe the meek will inherit the earth." While I haven't been to Vietnam yet, I do think that this characterization is inapplicable to the Vietnamese people who have a history that more betokens strength, resistance and resilience than anything that could rightly be called meek.
Maybe the rising waters will drive hordes of hungry, violent people into the gated communities where they will find food and shelter guarded by softies.
The same softies who thought it was OK for other people's kids to go to war for profits.
I think there is a kernel of something important in this idea.
Increasingly Americans are going to have to face that we have limited resources to provide help, rebuilding, health care and even food.
Now, of course, we see Bushworld increasingly looking like he thought _Soylent Green_ was a training film but even if there were some equitable distribution of resources, there will be limitations, imperfections and want. Needs unmet.
Personally, I do not think accepting maldistribution of resources, skewed towards the very rich is acceptable. But it is time we thought more about what we should do in the face of limited resources. Things like limit family size, eat more thoughtfully, consume judiciously, think about what is essential health care. Accept that not all things can be fixed.
When oil runs out, we'll learn to make do like the Vietnamese, without money. What will those used to having everything done for them, do with theirs?
ezeflyer,
They'll beg us to work for them.